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A proper Jeonju bibimbap spread

Hangover kongnamul-gukbap with moju

First meal off the KTX at Gwangju-Songjeong

A reset coffee after the May 18 walk

The full Namdo hanjeongsik spread, done right

A restorative bowl of perilla duck soup

A whole market-fried chicken, hot from the oil

Downtown Gwangju's history-and-art anchor

A slow lane walk after the May 18 route

A half-day hike looking down over Gwangju

An evening of art tangled with a night market

A street-food loop right off the KTX

Gwangju-style cafe hopping into evening bars

A hot local bowl of gukbap

A table of greens with snail-doenjang

A plate of thin pan-fried beef jeon

Understanding May 18, properly

Downtown Gwangju walking, food, shopping

A quiet temple before the Mudeungsan hike

The origin street of Gwangju oritang

Barley rice with doenjang after a Mudeungsan hike

Namdo market flavor through hongeo-samhap and skate-liver soup

Gwangju-style squid fritters wrapped in lettuce

Quick wheat noodles between Yangdong Market errands

Clear pork gukbap after arriving at Gwangju-Songjeong

Warm jokbal to take home after Yangdong Market

Warm Nam-Gwangju red-bean porridge with rice balls

Learning Namdo home cooking through twenty banchan

Instant tteokbokki after meeting by the post office

Sweet marinated pork ribs over briquette fire

Opening Gwangju history through Namdo ceramics and Sinan shipwreck relics

A slow read of modern everyday life in Gwangju

Sunset views over Mudeungsan and downtown Gwangju

Walking a Joseon academy and old civic park together

Reading May 18 through reconstructed Sangmudae cells and courtroom

A downtown lane of art shops, brush stores, and small galleries

Beginning Gwangju's May 1980 story before the former Provincial Hall

Gwangju's international contemporary art on a biennial rhythm

A half-day nature walk along lake and wetland decks

Everyday Gwangju walking along a former rail line

A north Gwangju family park for a day with kids

Old recreation-area nostalgia on the Mudeungsan foothills

A lawn walk to breathe between Sangmu-district plans

A modern-history lane walk between missionary houses and Lee Jang-woo House

A day that strings the city's museums together

A quiet afternoon with Namdo's modern art

A hot bowl of sundae-guk in the heart of the market

Hot hand-cut noodles after a market run

Old-school breads soaked in Gwangju's memory

Seeing Gwangju on foot or by bike through its center

Small architectures met on a downtown walk

The stone-pillar ridge at Mudeungsan's top

Walking Gwangju's biggest market, alley by alley

A hands-on science museum for a half-day with kids

A charcoal pork-galbi spread after work in Sangmu

A street made for lingering over one coffee

A daily-comfortable baekban you never tire of

A big loop to walk or run in the city

A bowl of plain buckwheat noodles in clear broth

A slice of cake after an alley stroll

A real neighborhood market, not a tourist one

Gwangju's north market, biggest on market days

An evening wrapping bossam, oysters, and kimchi in one bite

Hunting murals and views up a hillside lane

A quiet pause in the middle of Sangmu

Learning and making Namdo kimchi by hand

Reading May's records in the middle of Geumnam-ro

Cheap, hearty campus meals and late-night bites